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Trends and Challenges in Probiotics in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products
Introduction
Cosmetics are defined as "a substance (except pure
soap) designed to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying,
encouraging beauty, or altering the look," according to the US Food and
Drug Administration (FDA) [1]. This term applies to skin, hair, and oral care
products. It is crucial to note that no health claims are made in this
description.
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Many research have attempted to modify the microbiome in a
specific niche in favour of health due to the rising interest in bacteria
populating the human body, not just those infecting it. Probiotics has grown
significantly as a result of the use of helpful bacteria for this reason.
Probiotics are defined as "live microorganisms that, when supplied in
sufficient concentrations, impart a health benefit on the host" [2]. They
come in a variety of types, scopes, and applications. This includes cosmetics,
where the market for probiotics is expected to develop at a rate of 12% per
year over the next ten years, with North America as the driving force [3].
The present state of probiotic research for cosmetic and
personal care applications, as well as how "probiotic cosmetics" are
currently marketed, will be discussed in this article.
Skin Care Cosmetics
The fact that there are more probiotic products on the
market does not necessarily mean that science has been successfully translated
to commerce and consumers. Too many products do not meet the criteria for being
classified as probiotic. Because of several bogus claims and widespread overuse
of the phrase, mainstream consumer channels have given customers inaccurate
information. Probiotics aren't found in our guts, in fermented foods, and
aren't always better when there are more species or a higher viable count.
Formulations are created largely on marketing and what might appeal to
customers, rather than on scientific facts.
For example, items are being created ostensibly to improve
vaginal health by using strains that haven't been proven to compete with
urogenital infections, improve immunity, or do anything else to bring the
body's balance back. In other words, there is no evidence to back up their
decision. However, the internet, the use of keywords to rank on the first page
of search engines, and the use of pseudo-experts to promote these products have
allowed them to be highly rated and appear to be the best clinically documented
for preventing or curing bacterial or yeast infections in the vaginal area.
As a result, customers are misled and confused, and healthcare
experts are wary of the entire subject of probiotics. To counteract this, we
must restate key information.
To be classified as probiotic, a product must meet three
essential criteria: 1. The strain(s) must be defined genetically and
phenotypically, and a reason for its inclusion in the intended application must
be provided based on documented investigations published in peer-reviewed
journals. 2. At the time of use, the product must contain a sufficient number
of live microorganisms to convey a benefit to the specified target site, as
demonstrated in clinical tests. 3. If people are the intended recipients, the
administration mechanism, dosage, and duration of usage should be based on
scientific findings in humans.
If the product label does not include strain designations,
it is impossible to follow the study done on the ingredients, which makes it
difficult for potential consumers. Doses are rarely indicated on labels, and
some products only include filtered extracts, ferments, or lysed bacteria,
which means no living microorganisms are present: the product is not probiotic,
and the phrase should not have been used.
The cosmetics sector has forayed into this territory by
concentrating its efforts on skincare. This concept has a lot of potential and
offers a lot of value.
According to a survey of the websites of two large cosmetics
merchants in North America, at least 50 products claiming to include probiotics
are already on the market [4,5]. The top 30 terms used in their utterances are
shown in Figure 1 as a word cloud. The majority of them are for skincare, but
there are a few for deodorants and hair care as well. The most prevalent claims
are for "balancing" the skin microbiota, increasing the skin barrier,
and improving the general appearance of the skin.
Table 1 lists the numerous types of goods involved in this
study, and Table 2 lists the substances as specified on their labels; they all
relate to different types of skincare products. All of the goods featured in
this analysis are suitable for both men and women.
These claims are debatable in and of themselves. Because
there is no single healthy skin microbiome, what would it take to
"balance" the one possessed by a specific individual? Microbes have
been found in the dermis, adipose, follicle, and epidermis, among other layers
of the skin [8]. A probiotic product that claims to "balance" the
microbiome should have research showing how it affects the various layers of
microbiota in such a way that it restores and maintains what is judged healthy
for each individual in a large number of participants, preferably hundreds.
Claims of balancing the skin microbiota should be avoided
because it is exceedingly improbable that such studies have been conducted for
most, if any, products. This is crucial because customers appreciate the sound
of products that accomplish this, especially now that phrases like
"microbiome" and "balance" are so extensively used.
Consumers' perceptions of skin improvement can be
subjective, but there are fundamental scientific factors at work. It is
possible to measure factors such as contrast decrease, the existence of visible
ageing markings or spots, skin colour, melanin, and haemoglobin [9]. This and
other assessments allow for the production of real results, which can
subsequently be used to back up claims of improvement.
It has been observed that specific probiotic strains can
increase epithelial and epidermal barrier function. The latter is so important
to the skin's function that it's a common target for creating consumer-friendly
promises. Experiments can be conducted to verify whether strains used as
cosmetics improve barrier function. Indeed, researchers from a well-known
cosmetics company demonstrated that a lysate from the probiotic Bifidobacterium
longum reuter strain could reduce vasodilation, edoema, mast cell
degranulation, and TNF-alpha release, and that using trans-epidermal water loss
to assess barrier function, the lysate-containing product improved barrier
function [10]. Some products list a filtrate of ferments or lysates as an
ingredient.
In the case of filtrates, bacterial cells (alive or not) and
maybe some other bigger weight molecules are eliminated (e.g., peptides). This
may result in the removal of some of the preparation's bioactive chemicals and
bacterial cell components required to observe certain effects. As a result,
filtrates are not considered postbiotics and cannot be classified as
probiotics.
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